Fabric gap seals on a Cruisair

NC74392

NC74392

New member
Question about those fabric gap seals on my Cruisair.
As Dan Cullman pointed out, the trim tab is fixed in place with two pieces of fabric tape sewn down the middle to create an "X" when looking at it from the side. My question is why wouldn't someone do that with gap seals on the elevator and rudder :?: Mine were merely one piece of wide tape spanning through the hingeline (port to starboard).
Seems to me this would cut drag a tiny bit and keep rainwater out of that gap if you got caught in some precip.

BTW, anyone have a good drawing of the trim tab linkage from the last fuselage mounting block under the vertical stabilizer to the tab itself? I can't remember how it goes back together (it's been 7 years) :!: :|
 
Will do!
Waaaay too wet here today to do any work. I'll get Margaret (wife) to sew these up for me. She's really good with a straight seam whereas I do good to get a needle threaded much less anything straight.
Still tempted to rework the fuselage fabric :? Margaret knows how obsessive I can get with having things exactly right. Besides, I'm really afraid the crooked seam in the envelope will stick out like a sore thumb hence driving me even more crazy :lol:
It has about a 1/2 inch wiggle in it about halfway down the top left longeron. My fault- not the envelope. I pulled it too much when gluing it to the bottom left longeron. Also pulled too much slack out of it around the windscreen mounting area on top of the fuselage and am afraid I can't get the windscreen to seat properly.
Any idea how much fabric it'll take to cover both wings? I plan on using the lightweight stuff to save a little weight.
Also- any advice for me when I remount the fuel tanks in the wing? It had a bunch of broken wood rulers in there for shims and no cushion material (reworked back 1971). Somebody had also cross-threaded the rear fuel pickup union into the gastank. It leaked Mogas out (red) all over the wing and hangar floor. Wood is stained, but doesn't appear fuel-soaked or rotten.
 
I have never used an envelope; so I don't know why you have a seam along a longeron. If so, it should closely parallel that member-never crossing it. Maybe try a three inch tape over the longeron and it'll cover the wiggle. Covering is a time consuming and expensive proposition. I always suggest getting some competent help for the first couple projects. I think you have some easy to solve problems............get some help.
 
I haven't seen red mogas.......It was probably 80/87. The Cruisair used medium hard rubber over the 'L' brackets that support the fuel tank-only 1/4 to 5/16" thick. As long as your tanks are out, check them for leaks and corrosion. Make sure the tank bay drains are open. Probably 6 yards per panel should work. This does not include ailerons and flaps. Do it like the factory........no tape on the leading edge. Again, get help. There have to be folks in the Huntsville area that are willing to help. It might cost a few $$$$$$, but it'll be worth it.
 
Dan had good advice about checking the fuel tanks for leaks. When I took mine out of the wing they looked great but my I.A. suggested that I have them tested anyway. Yep...I had a leaker. :(
Gary
 
I found the best way to check for leaks in fuel tanks was to plug all holes except the filler neck and duct tape the outlet hose of a shop vac into the filler neck. Never use compressed air.......you could wreck your tank. Now with the shop vac blowing into the tank, go around every weld, seam and rivet with a brush that has been dipped into very soapy water. A leak will show up as a bubble. I've done this on many fuel tanks.
 
Another way to check a tank is to seal everything up and have rubber tubing as an access port. Attach tubing to altimeter and (T it in) and then by rolling the tubing or gently blowing and clamping off securely, get the altimeter to a couple thousand feet over present altitiude. Wait an hour and see if there is a change (if you are really obsessive, you can adjust the Kollsman window to allow for changes in Barometric pressure between first and second check of altitude.
 
Theoretically, you shouldn't need anything on pipe threads. However, if you feel the need, Aviation 'form-a-gasket' or teflon tape is ok. Don't put it on the first couple threads.
 
Dan:

Can you e-mail me with a good description of using the blanket method on a Cruisair fuselage? I'll have to cover the top and sides. The bottom was a seperate blanket, so I shouldn't have to rework that.

My e-mail is cruisair@hotmail.com

I decided to recover the durn thing. The more I look, the more I'm really disappointed with my effort. Besides, I can replace the headliner the cats slept all over when the fuselage was upside down. It's pretty filthy, it's wool, and I doubt I can scrub it clean enough to look new again.
 
Double D, check my question a good while back titled "S Tapes". I am still looking for the gap seals like the Pitts Special has. You can remove the controls without cutting your fabric. All the talk about VGs is irrelavant on the Cruisemaster. As my experience with VGs =a waste of money . :mrgreen: Lynn
 
OK........Here's my take on covering the 14-13/14-19 fuselage. After all your work on this portion, wiring, wood, priming,blah , blah. You cover the belly in one piece....Now, using two full width pieces, you drape this assembly over the top and sides of the fuselage. Use "T" pins,and pencil marks, mark the backbone of the airplane. Double sew this line. Turn it inside out. Trim excess fabric. Pull the seam line just off center, glue and shrink. What a nice job!
 
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