Landing light replacement

M

mtbowhunter

New member
This may sound elementary to most of you, but as with all things on my plane, the first time something needs to be replaced/fixed, it's a new experience for me. So here goes.

The bulb in the landing light is burnt out on my 1976 7GCBC and American Champion informs me the replacement part is GE 4509. That bulb is easy enough to find, but I see there is a bulb available which is GE Q4509 which is the quartz halogen version of that bulb. It is advertised as having more candle power and longer life. Is this interchangeable with the 4509 and if so, does it need a field approval?

I greatly appreciate the help, and thanks for not laughing. :oops:

Joe in MT.
 
Joe:
I have been using the Q4509 for a couple of years in my aircraft with no problems. It is definitely brigher and seems to last longer. I have assumed since it is an approved part that it is legal to use but I have not looked into it.
Mark
 
Technically its not legal.
Will anyone ever catch it? I would bet money they wont.
You could probably get is signed off as a minor alteration though. Just say they added a "Q".... :lol:

Edit:
I am sure I will forget, but we could look at adding it to the Tech Data. Would be a minor but, it would be legal then.
 
Jerry-

It would be good to have the Q4509 as a legal option, while you're thinking of the landing light it would be good to have an external retaining ring so that the bulb could be changed without cowl removal.

Tom-
 
Yeah, getting that induction sleeve reinstalled is a PITA. Anyone have a clever way to do this? FWIW, I'm using the Q bulb, too. -Alex
 
Alex-

First note that the induction sleeve should be clamped to the cowl, after cowl removal roll the induction sleeve back over the clamp, after the cowl is installed reach up from the bottom and roll it aft over the carb box, and assure that it is on the outside of the carb box all the way around. This is also a good time to ascertain that the baffle seals are in the correct position, if not I use a looooooooong paint stirrer to push them in place from the lower cowl opening.

There have been cases of incorrectly installed sleeves, that is sleeves that are clamped to the carb box rather than the cowl, getting sucked in and starving the engine for air.

Tom-
 
On 1974 and newer with the square air filter we replaced the mounting screws with Stainless Steel Allen screws. Using a ball type Allen screwdriver it is very easy to remove the filter and reach thru the inside to install the induction sleeve. There are a lot of places (non-structural) that replacing sloted screws with Allen screws make service a lot easier. You can get these screws, SS sheet metal screws and much much more at McMaster Carr
mcmaster.com :D
Regards
Morris
 
This is my biggest mechanical problem as well. In the last 200 hours I have been through 3 bulbs. I have the light on all the time as I'm in a really high traffic zone, however each time I have to take the cowl off just to replace the light. And it $56 a pop!
 
I have purchased a number of landing lights off eBay, including the 4509Q versions (seems fire departments use a lot of them) from $5 to $12. There is a std, 4509 on eBay now item # 330071471444 buy it now $7.99
I have not found the Quartz version lasts any longer than the standard. (internal mechanical failure)
If you want to install a HID type that uses 1/2 the power and is twice as bright and may never burn out here is the link.
http://www.aerovisions.com/hid/hid_aircraft_kits.html

Regards
Morris
 
I've had great luck with 4509Q compaired to the old bulb.
Someone suggested installing the bulb so the element is verticle rather than horizontal to better withstand the shock of landing.

It's probably debatable but certainly worth a try (unless you need a STC to rotate it that way :-)

If I'm just using it during a hazy day to help the tower see me, I try to remember to turn it off on short final so it's cool on touch-down but half the time I forget.
 
"...I try to remember to turn it off on short final so it's cool on touch-down but half the time I forget."
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I was told many years ago that the filament is much more brittle cold than hot - therefore more susceptible to breaking.

Consequently, I always turn my landing light on prior to entering the pattern, and leave it on until clear of the runway. Maybe a coincidence, but I can't remember the last time I had to replace my standard 4509.
 
Hmmm, that sounds like a good debate over a beer.
I've had may an element break on me when I've knocked a trouble light while working on an engine. Yet, they seem to handle getting bumped around when turned off much better.
I may have apply for a government grant for more research. :wink:
 
From an auto accident investigation website:

"...when a filament is on, its temperature is above 4,000F, and at that temperature, the tungsten becomes very ductile. That is, it will stretch and deform a huge amount, in contrast to its brittle behavior at room-temperature.

A clean break of the filament means it was probably cold at impact. A deformed filament with looping or twisting of the wire means it was hot at the time of impact."

I understand that not everything on the web is true, but the site seems legitimate enough: http://www.meic.com/Newsletters/2002/Winter02.htm
 
"Shock and Vibration-Lamp failure in an overhead projector can be due to mechanical shock. This occurs when using the lamp changer or bumping the unit while the lamp is operating. A hot lamp filament is very fragile. You should always make sure the unit is turned off and the lamp is cool before moving the lamp changer or the unit."

http://www.dukcorp.com/AudioVisual/service/lamplife.asp

....maybe you're just one of those guys that never makes a bad landing :-)
 
....maybe you're just one of those guys that never makes a bad landing :)
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My passenger: "Was that an earthquake while we were landing?"
 
69GCBC said:
I've had great luck with 4509Q compaired to the old bulb.
Someone suggested installing the bulb so the element is verticle rather than horizontal to better withstand the shock of landing.
Click to expand...

Ive modified many lights to put the element vertical and have noticed longer burn times in all applications.
 
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